I’m not sure where I first discovered ‘Thick As Thieves’ as an option for made-to-measure suits, but I’m glad I did. I got married in 2012 and for the occasion decided to reward myself with a custom-made suit. The suit pictured here was supposed to be my ‘trial’ suit to test the results of Thick As Thieves, with a view to getting them to make my wedding suit if things worked out well. I ended up going full bespoke elsewhere for the wedding, which is a decision I am still regretting and wish I’d returned to Thick As Thieves for that commission – more about that in another post, but for now, here is my first ‘trial’ suit made by Thick as Thieves in 2012.
I chose the cloth from the website – http://www.thickasthievesla.com – which states it’s wool and kid mohair. It’s debatable whether the colour is light gray or powder blue. I come down on the side of powder blue, but either way the mohair gives it a slight sheen but it still has enough gray to be worn for business and not look like a member of The Temptations.
Despite this being a very summery colour and semi-lightweight cloth, the canvassing is quite robust and the jacket wears warm so I bring it out for cooler sunny days in the Autumn and Spring.
The Thick As Thieves website includes video instructions on how to provide all necessary measurements, so you choose your cloth, choose your features, send in the measurements and your suit arrives in around six weeks for a very reasonable price. There is a ‘house cut’, which leans quite heavily on Mod-inspired details, but you are free to stipulate your own requirements as I did (straight pocket flaps, no ticket pocket, no vents). Jason is quite clear that you should manage your expectations, especially with the first suit order, and accept that you may need to reserve some cash post-delivery for minor tweaks if needed. He keeps a database of clients’ measurements so once you have dialed in your fit you can be confident that subsequent orders will come back fitting just as well.
I had some minor adjustments made to this suit jacket after receiving it. Primarily a slice taken out of the back to make the ventless hem lie closer to my bum. As an advocate of ventless jackets I suspect that this is something of an anomaly for the Thick As Thieves block pattern! The trousers were just about perfect. I’ve had a second order made by Thich As Thieves recently, for which I provided my own cloth, and it came back near perfect. I happened to be in Los Angeles and was able to meet Jason in person while I was wearing this original suit, which he used to confirm measurements and make some slight adjustments. Once again, turn around time was about six weeks and this time no additional tweaks were needed.
My experiences with bespoke and made to measure have on the whole been less than satisfactory in the past, and I don’t believe this is due to overly high expectations on my part. I’m fortunate enough that many off-the-peg clothes fit me very well without the need for major surgery, and I don’t mind paying a bit extra for adjustments like sleeve and trouser lengths as needed, so for a long time I gave up on any kind of custom-made options. Thick As Thieves has restored my faith, so I’m now pondering what my next move might be. If I find a length of the perfect dark blue Prince of Wales cloth I’m currently seeking, my next call will be to Jason!
Sunglasses – Ray Ban Wayfarer
Suit – Thick As Thieves
Shirt – TM Lewin
Tie – Thomas Pink Grenadine garza grossa
Pocket Square – Kent Wang
Socks – Uniqlo
Shoes – Allen-Edmonds Players navy suede brogues
Watch – Rolex Yachtmaster Platinum
Cufflinks – Tyrwhitt
Pen – Mont Blanc Meisterstuck
Tie Slide – Souvenir from Cozumel, Mexico