Regular readers may recall me writing about my disappointing experiences with custom tailoring over the years – be it made-to-measure or full bespoke – which have generally left me less than enthused with the whole process.
The one happy exception to all this has been my dealings with Thick As Thieves (www.thickasthievesla.com). This is a remote made-to-measure operation run by my pal Jason in Los Angeles. I’ve written about my previous experiences with this service when he made my powder blue mohair suit, my purple tweed jacket and when he rescued my botched bespoke wedding suit (click links for more details on those previous commissions). I have my fit perfectly dialled in so there’s no further need for measurements or even for post-delivery tweaks. At this point I choose the cloth and discuss a few details with Jason via email and in around a month’s time the finished product is delivered.
My most recent commission was this summer weight blazer and I couldn’t be more happy with how it turned out. I find it hard to see where going to a full bespoke tailor would have improved in any significant way on how well this fits. The fabric is a very textured and slubby linen-silk mix in a toasted golden tan colour. I don’t ask for wildly exotic deviations from the Mod-inspired Thick As Thieves house style, but there are some nice details on display here. Check out the sky blue lining with the hand pick-stitching.
I chose two patches hip pockets with double edge stitching and a welted chest pocket. Also four button surgeon cuffs, medium lapels and no vents. I left the buttons up to Jason and he picked out a colour that works perfectly
One thing I particularly like about my Thick As Thieves jackets is the very tasty canvassing above the top button where the jacket front rolls up into the lapel. It gives that three-dimensional effect which is much better looking than a store-bought flat-pressed lapel. I almost always wear my jackets with top two buttons fastened but this will be tempting to wear with middle button only fastened to accentuate that roll as shown above.
Sunglasses – Moscot Nebb Blonde
Jacket – Thick As Thieves linen-silk
Shirt – Tyrwhitt
Tie – Tyrwhitt Grenadine garza grossa
Pocket Square – Kent Wang
Strides – Banana Republic linen-cotton
Socks – Uniqlo
Loafers – Crockett and Jones Harvard II