There’s a nice little inside joke in the first James Bond film ‘Doctor No’ where Bond having been taken prisoner, sees the famous Goya painting of the Iron Duke in the villain’s secret underground lair and does a double-take. In the real world that painting had famously been stolen at the time the film was being made.
Anyway I came across a picture of that Duke’s descendent, the late 8th Duke, which I thought showed a great outfit. I don’t know much about this fella but in these pics he seems to set a good example of upper-crust classic English country-casual. A lovat green jacket with windowpane overcheck made up of blue and cream lines which pick up the blue shirt and tie and the light beige strides. We’ll overlook the egregious mis-match of belt and shoes, some tan country calf or brown suede footwear would have fitted the bill much better!
Anyway this look is not a long way removed from an updated version of the type of clothes we see the Earl of Grantham and family kitted out with in ‘Downton Abbey’ in which softly-tailored green tweed abounds:
I filed this image away in my memory as a general look worth pursuing at some point, until recently when I happened to be checking in with the DNA Groove website and came across this beauty. A softly-tailored lovat green hopsack wool jacket with feint overchecks in rusty orange and beige:
Claudio tells me he’s shifting his business plan towards doing more made-to-order stuff as opposed to straight up off-the-rack so I may have been lucky to grab this. I have another DNA Groove jacket in purple linen so had a good idea of my size, and it turned out that the new one fitted me very well. The surgeons’ cuffs were left unfinished which allowed my local tailor to adjust the sleeve length but that, along with removing the flaps from the patch-and-flap hip pockets were the only alterations needed.
In a similar detail to the Thick As Thieves blazer I had made recently, this jacket’s lapel also has a really sweet roll above the top button. It’s all wool so I originally thought it would be a winter-weight jacket but it’s actually a light-weight open hopsack weave with nice texture, so will be worn on warm spring and autumn days. I thought about Cavalry twills or heavy chinos to wear with this – either would be appropriate, but in matching up the warm-weather utility of the jacket I decided to go with these tropical wool strides from Howard Yount. I could wear my loafers in chestnut, tan or polo suede too but thought that these little-used jodhpur boots would be in keeping with the rural theme going on here.
Sunglasses – Garrett Leight Harding
Jacket – DNA Groove
Shirt – The Tie Bar chambray
Tie – Sam Hober
Pocket Square – The Tie Bar
Strides – Howard Yount
Jodhpurs – Tricker’s